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Langtang

Yaks grasing in high pastures of Langtang.

The Langtang region is the most accessible alpine region from Kathmandu. On clear days you can see the glaciated peaks of Langtang from the Kathmandu valley. Langtang is a narrow valley between the main Himalayan range to the north and a slightly lower subsidiary range to the South. The valley was recently reopened for visitors after the devastating effect of the 2015 earthquake, but there are still far fewer trekkers than the Everest or Annapurna regions.

Langtang is home to the Tamang people whose pastoralism, rich Buddhist culture and traditions are very similar to the neighboring Tibetans just one valley to the North.  Most people visit the region for the mountain views and to interact with the fascinating locals, experiencing a subsistence pastoral lifestyle that has persisted for the past ~1200 years. Our experience on this adventure will be exploring these attributes of the valley while doing some great climbing and peak hiking. We will meet in Kathmandu and then fly into Langtang the following day. Once we are in Kyanjin Gompa, we will set to rock climbing, ice climbing, and finally climbing a wild 5000+ meter peak (optional). This is a great first Himalayan experience, and also a new one for the Himalayan veteran that wants to pick up some new climbing skills in a spectacular location. All in 10 days. Join us.

Langtang. Prayer flags.

Prayer flags. Langtang.

FEATURES

  • Helicopter flight in and out of Langtang National Park
  • Instruction in mountaineering for those interested in learning or honing their skills in glacier travel, crampon technique, ice axe use, and the “nuts and bolts” of Himalayan alpine climbing.
  • Instruction in multi-pitch alpine rock climbing
  • Instruction in ice climbing
  • Lodge-based
  • Suitable for beginners
Langtang. In the kitchen.

Making breakfast. Langtang.

Climbing skills session in Langtang.

Alpine skills practice. Beginner level. Langtang.

Skills covered

-tying in with a figure eight follow through
-securing to the anchor with a locking carabiner and clove hitch
-restacking the rope for the leader for the next pitch
-cleaning cams and nuts from placements
-managing loose rock
-flaking out the rope for the leader
-anchoring the belayer
-communications for climbing – on belay, climbing, off belay, slack, tension, watch me, rock, ice, clipping
-alpine anchors
-three point equalized anchors
-rope types and applications – double ropes, single ropes, static/dynamic, alpine, crag, sport, traditional
-types of protection – cams, nuts/stoppers, wired hexcentrics, pitons, ball nuts, ice screws, natural, protection, slings, runners
-types of belays – terrain, anchors
-personal protective equipment – helmet, harness, shoes (approach, rock), gloves, hardware
-belaying the leader
-belaying a follower
-top rope setting
-climbing movement –
-hands –  crimp, sloper, side pull, pinch, gaston, undercling, finger lock, hand jam, fist jam
feet – edging, smearing, jamming
-glacier morphology – moulin, ablation zone, accumulation zone, ice fall, serac, dry glacier, wet glacier, tidewater, cirque, hanging, valley, moraine, erratic, terminal moraine, nose, snout, plastic flow properties
-ice climbing – swinging and placing an ice tool, foot work, parts of the crampon / ice tool and their use, ice anchors, ice screw placement, abalakov v thread
-belaying an ice leader/follower
Peaks in Langtang.

One of the surrounding peaks. Langtang.

Sunset in Langtang.

Sunset as viewed from Kyanjin Gompa. Langtang.

Tashi Delek and Namaskar.

ITINERARY

Day 1 – arrive Kathmandu
2 – fly Langtang
3 – acclimatize 4500m
4 – acclimatize 4800m
5 – ice climbing day
6 – alpine rock climbing day
7 – alpine climbing peak ascent
8 – alpine climbing peak ascent two
9 – rest or make up day
10 – heli Kathmandu, fly home in evening

Dates

April-May, October-November 2023 (10 days)

Region

Nepal

Difficulty

Moderate

Price

Inquire

Trip Deposit: US$1000

Group Size

Minimum 2 maximum 6 climbers

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Luke Smithwick's small group exploratory climbing and skiing expeditions. Custom expeditions of any level of difficulty to any point in the Himalayas

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